Replace Your Windows And Save Energy

Replacing old windows is always a win-win situation, whether you are staying or selling your house, or whether you live in a cold or warm climate. This increases the value of your home if you decide to sell it in the future, and it would also save you between 10 and 25 percent a year on energy bills whether you’re heating or cooling and you may even qualify for a tax credit.
If you have issues with budget and can only do a room or a few columns at a time, this can be a do-it-yourself project. Learn the ropes first by starting with that unassuming window at the back of the house before going for the rest.
You have to decide first which of the following materials you would prefer for your frame: vinyl, wood, or fiberglass? As usual, you get what you pay for. Vinyl might be the lowest in terms of cost, is relatively maintenance free and comes in a wide range of colors to choose from. Although compared to fiberglass or wood, it doesn’t perform quite as well in terms of keeping the heat or cold out. Wood that is stained or painted will look best on an older house. Fiberglass frames, on the other hand, lasts longer than wood, requires less maintenance and can also be painted with any color.

Before you make that trip to the home improvement store, carefully measure the sizes of your windows first. Just in case there are warpings on the frame, it would be safe to go with the smallest measurements; using a measuring tape to measure from inside jamb (window jambs make up the top, bottom, and sides of the window like a frame) of the right side of the window to the inside jamb on the left side at the middle of the window, and then double check your measurements. Get the height by running the tape from the inside of the window sill to the inside of the top window jamb.

Once you have your new window, take out the old one. Begin by taking out the stops – the thin, vertical pieces of wood that hold the sashes (the framed part of the window that holds the glass in place). You’ll need to use a pry bar – gently – a screwdriver, and a utility knife. You will use the stops later for the replacement, for now you may set them aside.

Clip the inside sash cords, the ropes that allow the window to go up and down. Weights should be allowed to fall into their pockets. Then remove the outside sash by sliding it down and removing the vertical strips holding the sashes in place. Just leave the outside stops where they are.

Look for holes and cracks when you inspect the window. Sand the wood to remove any small cracks, and fill larger ones as well as holes with wood filler or putty.

Cross your fingers and see if you measured correctly and your new replacement window is the right fit. Centering the window sashes, move the bumper stops toward the middle and locate the four spots for side mounting holes. Both sides as well as the inside of the jamb’s outside stops should be applied with caulk. Before screwing it into place, mount the header on top of the window and caulk.

Use a level to make sure all corners are square when you place the new window in the hole. Tapping in the shims will help ensure that all the four corners are at 90-degree angles. Make sure there are no spaces in between the window and the frames, adjust the header across the top as you tighten the mounting screws at the top and bottom.

Install the inside stops and caulk inside the windows after checking that the sashes slide smoothly, and then you’re done.

To help you with your project refer to the step-by-step manual that comes with the windows, or you may check out the do-it-yourself videos that most major dealers have online. Once that first window is in, the rest will be a breeze.

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Aug 31st, 2010

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